Expert’s choice: New Zealand Chardonnay 2020

High scores for the 18 excellent wines selected reflect the huge progress that’s been made by New Zealand’s Chardonnay producers in recent years, and prove that 2020 is a highly rated vintage.

By Cameron Douglas MS

published 17 March 2022

in Tastings

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New Zealand Chardonnay 2020 — (Image credit: Credit Unknown)

New Zealand Chardonnay has earned its place in your wine cellar, and I encourage you to take another look at what the country has been up to. Diverse styles across a range of prices offer far more texture, concentration and complexity than you may have found in the past.

New Zealand has been blessed with three outstanding successive vintages in 2019, 2020 and 2021, across all 10 regions. And the Chardonnays in particular have been fantastic. Of the 39,934ha of producing vines across the country in 2020, just 3,222ha (8.5%) was Chardonnay, and just 230ha of this was from permaculture-managed vineyards – those maintained as an agricultural ecosystem, self-sustaining, using no herbicides or pesticides.

There are currently 50 member producers of the Organic Winegrowers New Zealand organisation, and within this group only 31 make Chardonnay, mostly for still wine production. It is interesting to note that there is an increase in wine businesses converting to or practising permaculture vine-farming in New Zealand – a very positive move if the quality of Chardonnay, as well as other varieties, is indicative of these farming practices.

Chardonnays from the 2020 vintage, which should be well represented in the UK, show more complexity in their aromas, showcasing mineral attributes alongside pure fruit. There’s a riper fruit profile on the palate, too, featuring more defined flavours of grapefruit and lemon to white peach, baked apple and even quince. Baking spices from barrel-toasting is also evident in many, alongside richer apricot and baked custard notes.

Looking forward, 2021 was by no means an easy vintage for New Zealand wine producers, with some challenging weather conditions affecting flowering. An increase in export demand has not been helped by logistical hurdles from shipping lags and Covid-19. Despite all this, the 2021 vintage has delivered some exceptional quality overall from much reduced harvests. Just 23,507 tonnes of Chardonnay was crushed, down by 4,000 tonnes compared to 2020 figures.

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New Zealand’s first and only Master Sommelier, Cameron Douglas MS is a well-known and experienced writer, educator, speaker, and reviewer of all things beverage.

Expert’s choice: New Zealand Chardonnay 2020

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Ata Rangi, Masters Chardonnay, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2020

Dry River, Chardonnay, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2020

Kumeu River, Coddington Vineyard Chardonnay, Kumeu, Auckland, New Zealand 2020

Villa Maria, Keltern Vineyard Chardonnay, Hawke's Bay 2020

Bilancia, La Collina Vineyard Chardonnay, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand 2020

Church Road, Tom Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 2020

Palliser Estate, Om Santi Chardonnay, Wairarapa, New Zealand 2020

Black Estate, Home Chardonnay, North Canterbury, |New Zealand 2020

Blank Canvas, Reed Vineyard Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand 2020

Easthope Family Winegrowers, Skeetfield Vineyard Chardonnay, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand 2020

Escarpment, Chardonnay, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2020

Mount Brown, Grand Reserve Chardonnay, North Canterbury, New Zealand 2020

Neudorf, Rosie’s Block Chardonnay, Nelson, New Zealand, 2020

Smith & Sheth, CRU Heretaunga Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 2020

Tony Bish, Golden Egg Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 2020

Two Rivers, Clos des Pierres Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand 2020

Black Barn Vineyards, Barrel Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 2020

Trinity Hill, 125 Gimblett Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 2020

Butterworth, Julicher Te Muna Chardonnay, Martinborough, New Zealand 2020

Framingham, Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2020

Matahiwi, Holly Chardonnay, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2020

Stonecroft, Chardonnay, Gimblett Gravels, 2020

Te Pa, Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2020

Te Whare Ra, Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2020

The Boneline, Barebone Chardonnay, Waipara Valley, 2020

Chard Farm, Judge & Jury Chardonnay, Central Otago, 2020

Kahurangi Estate, Mt Arthur Reserve Chardonnay, Nelson, 2020

Marisco, The King's Bastard Chardonnay, Waihopai Valley, New Zealand 2020

Paddy Borthwick, Chardonnay, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2020

Squawking Magpie, Gravels Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, 2020

Whitehaven, Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2020