Expert's Choice: Premium McLaren Vale Grenache

Grenache , in the hands of McLaren Vale’s most astute producers, can be the most supple and beguiling of grape varieties. It all depends on the age of the vines and the complexity of the vineyard sites – and McLaren Vale has both in abundance. The best Grenache vineyards, mostly dry-grown bush vines up to 120 years old, have arguably become Australia’s take on grand cru: rare, idiosyncratic and expressive vines on exemplary sites. And the results from the 67 samples submitted to Decanter by 30 invited producers for this elite regional tasting did not disappoint. The top wines were extraordinary. Scroll down to see notes and scores for the top 30 McLaren Vale Grenache wines [subscriber-content]The secret is in the soils. Flanked by the Mount Lofty Ranges and the Gulf St Vincent, this coastal region’s geology is hugely complex, a fact underlined by the map of its geology, first produced in 2008 (see mclarenvalewine.au ). Indeed, the McLaren Vale Grape Wine & Tourism Association states that ‘more than 40 unique geologies are present’ – placing it among the world’s most geologically diverse wine regions – although the 7,375ha of vineyards are planted on only about half of that number. Among the wide range of soil types are some more than 500 million years old. Single-site surge McLaren Vale’s geological complexity, and the resulting diversity in wine flavour profiles, has prompted a surge in the number of single-site Grenaches produced in recent years. It has also triggered a tussle among boutique producers to procure the best fruit – especially that from two renowned family-owned sites: the Smart vineyard in Clarendon, first planted in 1922, and the Trott vineyard in Blewitt Springs, which dates back to 1952. Between them, they boast 10 single-site wines from eight different producers. ‘Different sites produce wines of significant difference, and we strive to capture that in the glass,’ says Aphelion owner-winemaker Rob Mack, who produces six varietal Grenache wines from across the region, as well as Grenache-led red blends and a Grenache Blanc. The single-vineyard focus began with d’Arenberg’s Chester Osborn, who released three single-vineyard Grenache wines from the 2002 vintage, to demonstrate the effect that different McLaren Vale soil types have on vines and the resulting wine personalities. [caption id="attachment_524070" align="alignnone" width="600"] Thistledown’s winemaker Giles Cooke MW punching down the harvest. Credit: Thistledown.[/caption] Common ground Many producers have expanded on that idea, including Bondar, SC Pannell and Willunga 100. In Thistledown’s seven pure-Grenache wines, winemaker Giles Cooke MW focuses on acidity, light-bodied fruit and sculptured palate texture. ‘I want to find common ground between Grenache’s fruit personality and mineral influence that speaks of site more than winemaking artifice,’ he says. ‘The trick is to be generous without sacrificing terroir definition.’ A raft of winemakers are finding their own answers to this tricky equation, dialling down alcohol and easing away from overt oak to allow the McLaren Vale Grenache fruit to shine. Grenache can ride a perilous journey. An early-budding variety, it can be vulnerable to spring frosts and is also prone to coulure, which causes irregular flowering and fruit set, and can reduce yields. In 2023, cool, wet, windy and cloudy weather adversely affected fruit set across the region. Rhône-style blends emerging Another exciting chapter of McLaren Vale’s Grenache story is just emerging – in distinctive red blends. Wineries such as Chalk Hill, Hither & Yon and Samuel’s Gorge are removing the Shiraz , and sometimes also the Mataro (aka Mourvèdre ) from the southern Rhône-style SGM and GSM blends. This gives Grenache more space to shine as the dominant flavour, with Tempranillo , Touriga Nacional and Graciano stepping in to provide an inspired new take on a traditional style. But that’s all another story. For now, if you haven’t already, it’s time to discover premium McLaren Vale Grenache. [/subscriber-content] David Sly's top 30 McLaren Vale Grenache wines [wine-collection] Related articles New South Wales on a high: Orange & Hilltops regions and 15 wine picks Around Australia in 20 wines: Matthew Jukes’ selection Best of Australia: Top medal-winning wines to try

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Scroll down to see notes and scores for the top 30 McLaren Vale Grenache wines

David Sly’s top 30 McLaren Vale Grenache wines

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