Expert’s Choice: Premium McLaren Vale Grenache

Ancient vines and a dizzying diversity of soil types are powering a Grenache renaissance in McLaren Vale, the picturesque region in southern Australia, where single-vineyard expressions are on the rise.

By David Sly

last updated 10 May 2024

in Tastings

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McLaren Vale Grenache — McLaren Vale is home to some of the world's oldest Grenache vineyards.

(Image credit: McLaren Vale Grape Wine & Tourism Association)

Grenache, in the hands of McLaren Vale’s most astute producers, can be the most supple and beguiling of grape varieties. It all depends on the age of the vines and the complexity of the vineyard sites – and McLaren Vale has both in abundance.

The best Grenache vineyards, mostly dry-grown bush vines up to 120 years old, have arguably become Australia’s take on grand cru: rare, idiosyncratic and expressive vines on exemplary sites. And the results from the 67 samples submitted to Decanter by 30 invited producers for this elite regional tasting did not disappoint. The top wines were extraordinary.

The secret is in the soils. Flanked by the Mount Lofty Ranges and the Gulf St Vincent, this coastal region’s geology is hugely complex, a fact underlined by the map of its geology, first produced in 2008 (see mclarenvalewine.au). Indeed, the McLaren Vale Grape Wine & Tourism Association states that ‘more than 40 unique geologies are present’ – placing it among the world’s most geologically diverse wine regions – although the 7,375ha of vineyards are planted on only about half of that number. Among the wide range of soil types are some more than 500 million years old.

McLaren Vale’s geological complexity, and the resulting diversity in wine flavour profiles, has prompted a surge in the number of single-site Grenaches produced in recent years. It has also triggered a tussle among boutique producers to procure the best fruit – especially that from two renowned family-owned sites: the Smart vineyard in Clarendon, first planted in 1922, and the Trott vineyard in Blewitt Springs, which dates back to 1952. Between them, they boast 10 single-site wines from eight different producers.

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After 30 years in journalism, Australian freelance writer, author and editor David Sly has been fortunate enough to indulge his passions in print. Based in Adelaide, South Australia, David has moved from newspapers to specialise in food and wine writing, being published in national and international magazines, from Gourmet Traveller to Decanter, and is Food & Wine Editor of SA Life magazine. He has focused intently on the specialised regional produce and wines of South Australia, winning national awards, and is a graduate of the University of Adelaide/ Le Cordon Bleu Gastronomy course.

Expert’s Choice: Premium McLaren Vale Grenache

Scroll down to see notes and scores for the top 30 McLaren Vale Grenache wines

Single-site surge

Common ground

Rhône-style blends emerging

David Sly’s top 30 McLaren Vale Grenache wines

Bekkers, Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2021

Aphelion, Rapture Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

Gemtree, Small Batch SBO Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

Hither & Yon, Leask Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2020

Ministry Of Clouds, Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

Thistledown, This Charming Man Single Vineyard Grenache, Clarendon, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

Yangarra, High Sands Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2020

Aphelion, Confluence Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

Bondar, Higher Springs Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

Dandelion Vineyards, Faraway Tree of McLaren Vale Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

Gemtree, Small Batch SBE Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

SC Pannell, Old McDonald Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2021

Thistledown, Sands of Time, Old Vine Single Vineyard Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

Thistledown, She’s Electric Old Vine Single Vineyard Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

Willunga 100, Smart Vineyard Grenache, Clarendon, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

Yangarra, Ovitelli Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2021

Aphelion, Wait Single Site Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

d'Arenberg, The McLaren Sand Hills Single District Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2013

Dandelion Vineyards, Treasure Trove of McLaren Vale Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

MMAD Vineyard, Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

SC Pannell, Smart Vineyard Grenache, Clarendon, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2021

Sherrah, Preservative Free Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2023

Silent Noise, MF Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

Willunga 100, Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

Wirra Wirra, The Absconder Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

Bondar, Rayner Vineyard Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

Hither & Yon, Sand Road Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022

Kay Brothers, Griffon’s Key Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2021

Oliver's Taranga, Small Batch Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2023

Yangarra, Old Vine Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2022