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First taste: Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 2012

Simon Field MW takes a look at Pol Roger's latest release...

Described by CEO Laurent D’Harcourt as a celebration of Chardonnay, Pol Roger’s Blanc de Blancs has, since its introduction in 1959, provided a fascinating counterpoint to the other wines in its illustrious portfolio, which tend to favour the black grapes of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

The 2012 vintage – a success?

2012 has the reputation of being a Pinot Noir year, so the decision to release the Blanc de Blancs – 2009 being its previous release – is interesting.

A somewhat unpredictable year, 2012’s hailstorms and a prolonged August heatwave both served to concentrate the grapes. A short but very impressive crop resulted, ripeness achieved but not at the expense of acidity and freshness. It’s a beguiling juxtaposition.

Laurent reveals that there’s a small amount of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger fruit now added to the other five grand cru villages in the blend (Oiry, Chouilly, Cramant, Avize and Oger) – the best that the Cote des Blancs has to offer, in other words.

The resulting wine more than justifies Christian Pol Roger’s memorable description of ‘liquid diamonds’. Sparkling indeed.

First taste: Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 2012


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