Penfolds Collection 2023: Global ambitions underlined

<p>It's a hard act to follow the monumental 2018 Grange, which – priced at AU$1000 for the first time on release – earned a slew of perfect scores. Chief winemaker Peter Gago regards the 1989, 1999 and 2009 as 'sleeper vintages' so urges against any rash prejudgement on this 2019. Sure, it is not as showy as the 2018 was on release, but if it is anything like the 1999 when it hits its stride in 20 years' time, then patience will be rewarded. The imposing structure, concentration and sheen of new American oak remains the trademark style, but the most powerful wine in the Penfolds stable – officially Bin 95 – is nevertheless becoming increasingly more approachable in recent vintages, and this 2019 is no exception (although approachable remains a relative term for a wine with 40 to 50 years ahead of it). Initial high-toned aromas of chinotto and kirsch lead to spicy liquorice, cedar freshness and more savoury, earthy tones. The palate is mighty: bold, chewy espresso oak char overlaying ripe black berries, plum pudding, rosemary, cured meat and balancing acidity. A blend of Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Coonawarra and Clare Valley fruit, aged 19 months in new American oak hogsheads. Released at £670.</p>

<p>Inspired by Bin 707, this cuvée, first launched in 1993 with the 1990 vintage, demonstrates Penfolds' multi-regional blending philosophy even further by also including Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from McLaren Vale, Padthaway and Adelaide Hills, but dialling down the oak – here 12 months in French (25% new) and American (12% new) hogsheads. A supremely cool and classy wine this vintage whose perfume seduces from the off. Gorgeous, layered aromas and rich flavours of blackforest gateau, rosemary, pencil lead, boysenberries, violets and exotic tobacco. Lovely cleansing acidity prevents any heaviness, and the oak sits in the background, adding a quiet cedar tone and a superfine tannin structure. Hard to resist now, but it will mature beautifully. The best-value wine of the range – a no-brainer at this price. Released at £75.</p>

<p>The multi-regional Cabernet Sauvignon partner to the Shiraz of Grange, Bin 707 has dedicated fan base, who will welcome its return in 2021 after the quality and style of fruit was not available in 2020. This release sees more than 50% of the blend coming from Coonawarra, which stands out in its confidently brisk nose of blackcurrant, ferns and spearmint alongside sweeter ripe boysenberry and with warm hot cross bun notes (Barossa Valley and Wrattonbully fruit comprise the remainder). The plush, generous inky palate runs a similar theme, with menthol freshness and chocolatey-smooth tannins an undercurrent to imposing black fruit and sweet spices. A darker, deeper, denser option than the 100% Coonawarra fruit of Bin 169, this spends 16 months in new US oak hogsheads, lending a hint of coconut to the finish. Released at £475.</p>

<p>Always the most unique, savoury and graceful red in the Penfolds stable, beloved for the fact it does not see any new oak (just 12 months in large, seasoned vats) and thereby emphasises the unadulterated purity of South Australian Shiraz. And the dry, low-yielding 2020 vintage has delivered an already approachable St Henri whose score may well improve with further maturation (in the meantime I wait with rapt anticipation for the 2021…). More McLaren Vale fruit joins the Barossa and Clare parcels this vintage thanks to late summer rain, and the result is a textured, mineral, fresh-fruited profile that conjures up rhubarb, cherries and wild strawberries along with seaweed, curry spices and polished leather enveloped in dusty, textured tannins. Released at £96.</p>

<p>Baby Grange gets its moniker as components of the blend are matured in the same barrels as the previous vintage of Grange. But with Cabernet Sauvignon the main player (53% in this vintage), it is more a Baby 707, especially as it always benefits from wine originally destined for that cuvée as well as Grange. A beauty of a beast, whose imposing tannin structure and abundantly ripe fruit need time. Powerful, inky blue and black berry fruits dominate the nose and palate, alongside bergamot freshness, earthy tapenade, exotic spices, iron filings and lots of black pepper. Coconut richness from 12 months in US oak hogsheads (37% new) and fine cocoa powder tannins add grip and linger long. Released at £71.</p>

Elegant, inviting and refined aromas of red forest fruits and earthy, spicy black tea from Ceylon and floral notes. The palate is bright, crunchy, and vivid. Lovely, with elegance and brightness. Beautiful silky texture and persistent finish.

<p>Old-vine fruit concentration really stands out from this fan-favourite cuvée, taken from the vineyard that surrounds the Penfolds HQ, just 8km from the centre of Adelaide, and made on site at the original winery, founded in 1844. It's comfortingly old school, with its bramble, damson and currant richness, overlaid with blackstrap molasses, liquorice allsorts, black olives and beef stock. It sounds heavy, but its not, thanks to balancing acidity, velvety- textured tannins, Provençal herb lift and a generous dusting of vanilla oak spice from 19 months in French (90% new) and American (10% new) hogsheads. A lovely vintage already approachable now. Released at £137.</p>

<p>Barossa Valley grapes selected for their regional character, lifted aromas, fine tannins and plush texture comprise this cuvée, which began as a Red Winemaking Trial (RWT) project in the early 1990s and first released in 2000 with the 1997 vintage. It's always an impressively generous and bold-fruited style, showcasing the Barossa's characteristic opulent black and purple berry fruit, dark espresso-like earthiness and chocolatey-smooth tannins, but in this stellar vintage there pops of cured meat and black olive along with violet florals and sweet sesame paste. The 14 months in French oak hogsheads, 80% new, is supporting not intrusive and it is already pretty complete. Released at £141.</p>

<p>Marananga is a small hamlet in the heart of the Barossa Valley, which regularly delivers one of Penfolds' most traditional, old-school styles of Shiraz. It is muscular, steely and imposing – chief winemaker Peter Gago recommends decanting it even at this stage of its life to coax out its personality. Once opened, it reluctantly showcases ripe brambles and hedgerow, plum jam, roasted beetroot, currants, tar and sweet baking spices which follow on the rich, chunky palate. Chewy, chalky tannins make a big statement but a Campari-like brightness lifts the finish. A lovable brute. Released at £69.</p>

<p>A cool-climate Coonawarra counterpoint to the multi-region Bin 28 Shiraz (much like Bin 169 Cabernet Sauvignon is to Bin 707 further up the ladder). And in this vintage it is very much the superior wine, displaying real elegance, delicacy and lift through the flavours of blueberry, damson skin and sweet frangipane countering savoury meaty notes, black pepper spice and tapenade. The acidity is refreshing and the supple tannins well knit, while the oak (12 months in French hogsheads, 21% new) lends support without intruding. Released at £42.</p>

<p>A new wine to join the Penfolds Bin range, so named because it marks 21 years since Penfolds released its first Cellar Reserve Barossa Valley Grenache (the latest release of which is the 2018 vintage, the first made since 2002). This is a very different style, however – still from old-vine parcels dating to the 1930s but with steely tannins supporting quite a light-bodied but high-toned palate. The fruit is a little confected – think raspberry jellies and red cordial – and the alcohol sticks out a little, but the concentration and fruit purity speaks of those old vines and is unencumbered by oak. Give it time. Released at £38.</p>

<p>Penfolds fans will fondly recall this Bin when it was called Kalimna Shiraz, first made in 1959 from the Barossa Valley vineyard Penfolds bought in 1945. Today Bin 28 is a multi-region Shiraz but Barossa fruit is always well represented. It may have lost the Kalimna name, but that traditional, old school style remains: monolithically dark, brooding and tannic, with ultra-ripe sweet fruit, smoky oak (from 12 months in American hogsheads, 7% new) and a roast meat and briney iodine note throughout. Released at £34.</p>

<p>Sometimes an SGM (as last vintage, with 69% Shiraz) but always from Barossa Valley fruit. This year Grenache quality was such that it represents half the blend, the 6% Mataro (aka Mourvèdre) delivering its meaty bite and the wine maturing 12 months in French and American barrels, 12% new. The alcohol sticks out at present and it feels quite heavy, with tight stewed tea tannins and more baked red fruits than fresh – though there are delicate hints of sweetly spiced fruitcake on the finish. This could grow into itself. Released at £38.</p>

<p>Penfolds fans know that Bin numbers are not just random digits, but come with a story behind them. Bin 704 was named as it is the reverse, or opposite, of its initial inspiration, Bin 407: both seek to express the character of Cabernet Sauvignon, but one from a single appellation (Napa Valley) and the other from multiple (South Australia). Despite the challenges of the vintage, this is an approachable, fresh, sweetly fruited wine that sings of red and black hedgerow berries, warm slate, violets and vanilla-flecked custard slice. There's ample grip from the fine, cocoa-dust tannins and the oak (16 months in French barriques, 40% new) is well integrated. Released at £64.</p>

<p>The Great Australian Red of Cabernet and Shiraz, made in the Penfolds style in California, sourced from sites in Napa Valley and Paso Robles, planted by Penfolds in 1998 from heritage cuttings taken from its historic Kalimna and Magill Estate vineyards. The Camatta Hills vineyard in Paso Robles was originally called Creston 600 Ranch, honoured in the Bin number. Less Cabernet (68%) than the past two iterations though it shows itself in the currant and blue fruit richness. Quite high-toned, with lots of alcohol warmth and generous toasted coconut oak (16 months in American barriques, 40% new), but sweet red cherry and cinnamon-baked plums poke through on the soft palate, backed by chalky tannins. Released at £48.</p>

<p>Penfolds is known for blending – grapes, appellations, regions and more recently hemispheres. But knowing when not to blend is equally important, says Penfolds group winemaker Steph Dutton who plays a key role in its California project. Sourced from block 13A of an Oakville vineyard that stood out from others for its gravel terroir, fruit concentration and varietal typicity, this is a sleeping giant that needs lots of time to wake and stretch out. Sweet almond nougat and burnt caramel cream notes from 16 months in 100% new French barriques currently dominate, but behind there's flavours of creamy baked blackberries, root beer, spiced fruitcake and dried herbs which back into a wall of chewy tannins. Cult Cal Cab collectors will love this. Released at AU$450.</p>

<p>Following on from the highly-rated 2018 vintage (released in 2021) this second edition of Penfolds' first Wine of the World continues to blend prime Napa Valley fruit (about 87%) with top parcels of Shiraz sourced from around South Australia, maturing the whole for 16 months in American (80% new) and French (20% new) barriques. Chocolate, coffee and coconut are the key flavour profiles here, enmeshing with spiced fruitcake, liquorice and more savoury tarmac notes. Very intense in flavour yet surprisingly lifted in its density thanks to brisk acidity, before a raft of structured tannins and charred oak weigh in. Impressive grip and power, and while its youthful generosity can be appreciated now, it will no doubt reward with careful cellaring. Released at £652.</p>

<p>Bin 149 gets its name from the proportion (14.9%) of South Australian Cabernet Sauvignon that was blended with Napa Valley fruit in the inaugural 2018 release. In the 2019 vintage it dropped to 10.1% and this year the percentage has yet to be revealed. The oaking is the reverse of Quantum, its fellow Wine of the World, still seeing 16 month in barriques, but here 80% new French and 20% new American. From the outset it is subdued, giving out gravelly, inky, metallic notes alongside suggestions of brambles, blueberry shortcake, mocha and cola sweets. Like Quantum, it is not heavy on the palate but very concentrated (albeit muted), the density supported by firm, chocolatey tannins and cleansing acidity. Needs time – and decanting. Released at £167.</p>

<p>A collaboration with Bordeaux house Dourthe, this Wine of the World is a multi-vintage follow up to the inaugural 2019 release. This vintage it drops the Shiraz (a positive move) and combines 2020 Merlot – sourced and vinified at Dourthe's Château Belgrave and La Garde properties – along with 2021 South Australian Cabernet Sauvignon, vinified at Penfolds' Nuriootpa winery in the Barossa, with the two components blended and bottled in South Australia. A successfully elegant integration, classy new French oak playing its part in uniting flavours of sour cherry, juicy black and red currants, minerally blue ink and savoury earthy tones. Lovely fresh acidity and velvety tannins lend drive and focus. Released at £270.</p>

<p>A follow-up to the inaugural 2019 French Winemaking Trial blend, sourced from Bordeaux properties (including Cambon La Pelouse in Haut-Médoc) acquired by Penfolds' parent company Treasury Wine Estates. This vintage there's more Merlot (41%) and less Petit Verdot (7%) but the Cabernet Sauvignon proportion is virtually unchanged. The proportion of new French barriques and the maturation time, meanwhile, has dropped to 20% and 12 months, although the new American barriques have increased (19%), which feels a little heavy handed and sweetly creamy for the angular, high-toned berry and currant fruit. The dry, chewy, steely tannins should resolve in time, allowing Penfolds' very modern take on a Bordeaux blend to blossom. Released at £75.</p>