Bordeaux dry white wines: 20 to try

Often the ‘poor relation’ when considering Bordeaux wines, the region’s dry whites are certainly on the up.

Given Bordeaux’s red wine dominance today, it is hard to believe that until the 1950s this was a white wine region.

Entre-Deux-Mers, and the Sémillon grape, dominated with vast quantities of lacklustre whites produced using traditional winemaking methods. The devastating frost of 1956 changed everything, with large areas replanted to red varieties and a new approach to the market.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores on 20 Bordeaux dry white wines worth seeking out

Back in 1990, while I was discussing the market for white Bordeaux with Charles Sichel, export director for Maison Sichel, he observed ‘producers can’t give white Bordeaux away – it’s all about red’.

Today it’s a different story. ‘There is a much better understanding now of how to grow white grapes, and this has been combined with modern winemaking techniques. So much of this is down to Denis Dubourdieu,’ adds Sichel.

Improving Bordeaux dry whites

The late, great Professor Dubourdieu was certainly instrumental in raising the bar for white wine production.

Better site selection and understanding the ripening process for white grapes were key, with control of picking dates balancing ripeness while preserving acidity. The use of stainless steel for cool fermentations improved aromatics and purity, while oak usage became more subtle.

At the premium end of the market, fermentation and maturation in barrel is still the preferred method, with the top Bordeaux dry white wines today demonstrating a great balance between finesse and power.

Market conditions also changed in the 1990s, with the arrival of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Bordeaux rose to the challenge and, although still behind Sémillon in total area planted, Sauvignon Blanc has transformed the landscape for dry white Bordeaux.

Even stellar red wine producers such as the Guinaudeau family of Château Lafleur in Pomerol are strong advocates of Sauvignon Blanc, planting Sancerre clones on the limestone soils of Fronsac.

However, plantings on the Right Bank, dry whites from estates in Sauternes, and the premium whites of top Haut-Médoc châteaux such as Mouton Rothschild and Margaux, sit behind those from Graves and Pessac-Léognan in terms of importance.

Here Châteaux Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion lead the field, producing white wines to match the greatest Burgundy; Domaine de Chevalier is close behind.

Pessac-Léognan whites marry power with elegance; subtle oak with layers of flavour; mineral and floral notes; ripe stone fruits with fresh citrus zest.

These are wines to savour now, with the best keeping for many years. And, unlike the inexorable rise in price for top Burgundy, many seem relative bargains.

20 Bordeaux dry white wines to find and enjoy

Wines tasted by Decanter experts in the past year. Introduction copy first published in Decanter’s Bordeaux guide 2019.

You may also like

Loire vs Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc: Can you tell the difference?Top South African white winesNew Zealand oaked Sauvignon Blanc: panel tasting resultsSauternes second wines: Why they’re worth a look