Walls’ hidden gems: Domaine d’Abrigeon, Buisson

Julien and Nadia d’Abrigeon stood before me like new parents: proud, exhausted, thrilled. Tasting with them in their rented cellar space, I shared their excitement for their new arrivals. It’s not often you get to taste the first vintage of a new domaine, especially not one so promising.

We’d just returned from visiting their vineyards in the village of Buisson. Not so long ago, this was an undesirable location. Cairanne and Rasteau inhabit the sun-warmed southern face of the Ventabren massif, whereas Buisson is located on its chilly northern slope. But today, cooler spots like this are beginning to come into their own.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for five Domaine d’Abrigeon wines

Julien and Nadia’s journey so far has been circuitous. Nadia is of Russian origin, and Julien was a geologist working for a quarry before he switched careers so he could work closer to plants and nature.

He gained widespread experience, from Bordeaux to New Zealand, but most recently worked for Marie-Thérèse Chappaz in Switzerland’s Valais region from 2014 to 2017; then for Jean-Louis Chave in Hermitage from 2017 to 2020. Their ultimate aim was to establish their own biodynamic estate, but as neither of them had family in wine it wasn’t obvious where to set down roots.

They considered St-Joseph, but were discouraged due to high land prices; they could have afforded half a hectare, but no more. The Loire and the Languedoc were also considered, but it was a love of sunny Provence that guided them to the southern Rhône. But they had doubts.

‘I was really worried about the oxidative side of Grenache, its cooked fruit and prune flavours,’ says Julien. ‘We thought Rasteau was too hot, we wanted north-facing, fresher vineyards.’ Then they heard about the plot for sale in Buisson.

Their bid was successful. In fact, they were the only ones to make an offer. Other winemakers no doubt considered it a worryingly late-ripening vineyard that delivered paltry yields. But Julien and Nadia recognised a fresh terroir and 80-year-old vines. Sometimes it takes outsiders to identify potential.

A herd of deer scattered as we entered their Coquelicot vineyard. They work organically, and are progressing towards biodynamic certification. ‘Step by step,’ says Julien. After taking a second vineyard they now farm 8ha, which is enough.

They make three cuvées. Coquelicot (meaning poppy) and Serre de Case are effectively pure Grenache, whereas Petit Champ is 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah.

The methods are similar for all three. ‘As natural as possible in the vines,’ says Julien, as well as following the lunar calendar and harvesting by hand. The important thing is ‘getting the healthiest grapes possible, and choosing the date of harvest – I taste a lot of grapes.’

In 2021 they made 1,000 bottles of Coquelicot; in 2022 they made 2,500. As they gradually build up a market for their bottled wines, the rest is sold in bulk – mostly to Jean-Louis Chave for his negociant Côtes du Rhône bottling, Mon Coeur.

Julien says Chave taught him that ‘there is no truth; if something works one year, it won’t necessarily work the next. You need to constantly question yourself. He taught me sensitivity and rigour – not always to choose the easiest route.’

Julien and Nadia are now planting Marsanne, Roussanne and Clairette to make a white wine, and Julien is considering diversifying the vineyard with Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Counoise.

Their biggest project will be building their own winery, as they are currently renting space in a small cellar owned by Marcel Richaud. Eventually Julien would like to replace his tractor with a horse, and to plant other crops.

But it’s still early days. ‘We’re right at the beginning of our story,’ says Julien. After all, all great domaines had a first vintage. I look forward to seeing what Domaine d’Abrigeon will achieve.

Matt Walls’ tasting notes and scores for five Domaine d’Abrigeon wines:

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