Walls’ hidden gems: Domaine du Banneret, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Matt Walls tastes a vertical of seven wines from Domaine du Banneret going back to 1989 and shines a light on this under-the-radar producer in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Alan Rickman got his big break alongside Bruce Willis in Die Hard at the age of 42. Julia Child didn’t release her first cookbook until she was 50. Arianna Huffington founded The Huffington Post at age 55. Sometimes it takes a little while for the stars to align.
Jean-Claude Vidal (pictured above) grew up in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, earning pocket money working for winemakers.
Eventually, he moved to Toulouse, where the prospects were better.
Scroll down to see Matt Walls’ tasting notes and scores for seven Domaine du Banneret wines
There were however some vineyards in the family on his mother’s side, and when the owners retired without children, an opportunity presented itself.
However long buried, dreams have a habit of swiftly reigniting given the barest hint of oxygen. At the age of 50, he acquired the plots, bought some secateurs and returned to Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Starting out
There was only one thing missing. Vidal wasn’t an experienced winemaker. But he knew someone that was. He asked his old friend Henri Bonneau to oversee his first couple of vintages – 1989 and 1990 – and show him the ropes.
Given Bonneau’s attachment to the old ways, it’s no surprise that Vidal’s wines were similarly traditional: all 13 varieties coplanted, no destemming, natural yeasts and very long maturation in old oak barrels.
Now, eight years after Vidal’s retirement, his first vintages are fully mature. I tasted the 1989 last week. Bonneau and Vidal clearly made quite a team; it’s one of the finest Châteauneufs I’ve ever tasted.
‘It was a dream for him, having worked in the cellars and vineyards in his youth,’ says his daughter Audrey Vidal, who joined the estate in 2012.
By this time, the estate had grown to 4.5ha, with vines ranging from 40 to over 80 years old. Father and daughter worked in tandem on the 2013 vintage, and her first solo flight was the 2014.
Generational changes
Audrey’s partner is winemaker Benjamin Tourbillon, whose colossal glass and metal showroom couldn’t be more different to the Vidal’s tiny cellar in Châteauneuf. I wondered if we might see a change of tack at Domaine du Banneret after Jean-Claude’s retirement.
‘I don’t want to change the profile or personality of the wine,’ says Audrey, but she would like to see a more ‘delicate touch’ to the wines, and a little more precision.
To this end she has introduced a cold pre-fermentation maceration and installed a temperature control system for the concrete fermentation tanks.
Finding manipulating the old barriques physically challenging in the small cellar, she has also invested in some larger barrels, including a small foudre that was bought new in 2015, but has no intention of introducing more new barrels where it can be avoided.
I tasted the three last vintages made by Jean-Claude (2010, 2011, 2012) and Audrey’s first three (2014, 2015, 2016) – the changes in the cellar have indeed made their mark.
Wine profile
Stylistically, the wines here have always been quite a Burgundian expression of Châteauneuf; paler than most, never pushing too hard for ripeness or concentration. That’s still the case. It’s very classic in style, and expresses the terroir and each passing vintage faithfully.
From the wines I tasted, the top years of Jean-Claude hit higher heights, but the less favourable 2011 is disappointing. Audrey has achieved her aim of greater delicacy; these inaugural vintages have a little less textural intensity but, it would seem, greater consistency.
And what about Audrey’s dreams of the future?
She’s already achieved one: introducing a white Châteauneuf, a precise and crisp style field blend grown on the limestone soils of lieu-dit Terres Blanches.
Otherwise, they are modest – to extend the estate if the right parcels become available, but not beyond a few more hectares. Perhaps to look a little further afield, to Plan de Dieu or Gigondas.
It may have taken decades to realise, but thank goodness Jean-Claude’s winemaking dream eventually came true. It’s been beneficial for him, for Audrey – and for us.
See Matt Walls’ tasting notes and scores for seven Domaine du Banneret wines
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Domaine du Banneret, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2016
Mid-depth of colour, far from opaque. The nose is delightfully fresh and lifted. There's a touch of sandalwood, star anise and potpourri to the red fruits. Medium-bodied, what's immediately noticeable is the acidity and the lack of weight for a 2016 Châteauneuf. The stemmy element makes itself known on the finish, in a gentle bitter twist. Its intensity suggests that this is going to be excellent in time, but I would wait, as the complexity will only come later. A relatively lightweight 2016 in style, but not in substance. You could drink this now, but will be so much better in 10 years' time. 60% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, with the remaining 20% made up of the other 10 permitted red and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape grape varieties.
2016
Domaine du BanneretChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine du Banneret, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2015
Mid-depth of colour, far from opaque. Aromatically reflective of its vintage, it has the juicy, cooked red fruit character of so many 2015 Châteauneufs. There's a little sweet fudge in the background, along with a whiff of incense. Soft and juicy, with good acidity and juicy ripe tannin. It has the acidity to balance out the sweet fruit. It's ready now, but will improve. Not sure how long this vintage will last - I'd keep a close eye on it. Tannins like fine, dry sand on the finish. 60% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, with the remaining 20% made up of the other 10 permitted red and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape grape varieties.
2015
Domaine du BanneretChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine du Banneret, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2014
Mid-depth of colour, far from opaque. Very different aromatic register to the 2015 and 2016, you can almost smell the vineyards after the rain - 2014 had a wet summer. There's a slightly vegetal, but not green, element to the aromatics. Medium-bodied, with strawberry and raspberry fruit, this is really lovely now, and has some length despite the weak summer. Fresh and approachable if not particularly complex vintage. 60% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, with the remaining 20% made up of the other 10 permitted red and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape grape varieties.
2014
Domaine du BanneretChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine du Banneret, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2012
Mid-depth of colour, far from opaque. Into a mature phase now, there's some attention-piquing balsamic notes on the nose. Juicy and approachable on the palate, with textural depth, there's a grain to the tannins and a saline touch on the finish. This is fantastic, it's balanced, not overly heavy, enjoyably savoury, with great length and freshness. I love the grip and textural character. 60% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, with the remaining 20% made up of the other 10 permitted red and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape grape varieties.
2012
Domaine du BanneretChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine du Banneret, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2011
Mid-depth of colour, far from opaque. There's a touch of VA on the nose here that's more evident than in other vintages. Not the most complex year, it lacks freshness and textural detail. Nice purity of berry fruit, but it's not as long or interesting as a typical vintage. There is a certain freshness however making for a drinkable style of Chateauneuf. 60% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, with the remaining 20% made up of the other 10 permitted red and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape grape varieties.
2011
Domaine du BanneretChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine du Banneret, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2010
Mid-depth of colour, far from opaque. Remarkably deep colour still. Immediately this shows its strength on the nose - complex, powerful, open and forthright. Leathery. The fullest in body of recent years, this is big and driving on the palate, but so fresh and intense. Great tannic texture and depth. Saline throughout the palate. Great length. This is good now, but will improve. 60% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, with the remaining 20% made up of the other 10 permitted red and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape grape varieties.
2010
Domaine du BanneretChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine du Banneret, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 1989
Mid-depth of colour, far from opaque. This has retained its colour incredibly well, looks similar to the 2016. On the nose this is absolutely glorious, so expressive and open, a riot of smells. Menthol, earth, spices, dark chocolate all so intense. Rounded and full-bodied, still sweet and succulent on the palate, by no means dried out. Perfect balance, it makes you fall in love with Châteauneuf again. A fusion of dry fruit and sweet earth. Could be an old Gevrey-Chambertin on the nose until it has the breadth and sweetness of Châteauneuf. An exquisitely harmonious wine with a breathtakingly beautiful fragrance. 60% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, with the remaining 20% made up of the other 10 permitted red and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape grape varieties.
1989
Domaine du BanneretChâteauneuf-du-Pape
