Chablis 2017 v 2018: 40 wines rated
Georgina Hindle compares two quality vintages in Chablis and finds the best deliver characteristic zest and refreshing wines that offer drinking pleasure now, but also the balance and intensity to keep and age...
Both the 2017 and 2018 vintages yielded quality wines in Chablis with one year producing vastly more quantity than the other.
Chablis suffered greatly in 2017 with frost severely depleting the overall yields achievable at harvest time – the second year in a row for the region’s producers. However, the grapes that were picked remained high quality giving the 2017s good balance with clear focus and freshness.
Scroll down to see the top-rated Chablis 2017 and 2018 tasting notes and scores
The 2018 crop was lauded at the time thanks to quality and quantity. It was larger than expected with many estates requesting to use the Volume Complémentaire Individuel (VCI ) to set aside an extra 10hl/ha over the permitted yield and keep as stock to use at a later date when there is a shortfall. Some were even ‘reduced to leaving grapes on the vines or throwing them away’ Tim Atkin reported in his Chablis 2018 En Primeur report.
However, in both years, picking dates were crucial with the best able to showcase signature power and acidity with enough appeal to drink soon as well as the potential to age.
This tasting comprised a majority of 2017s with 15 2018s giving a good impression of their characters and overall drinkability at this stage.
See all the Chablis 2017 and 2018 tasting notes and scores
The top 20 was an almost equal mix of the two vintages with both years showcasing purity of flavour, precision and vitality.
For both vintages, the premier cru sites stood out and mirror Tim Atkin’s En Primeur sentiment that it ‘pays to trade up’. Standout sites include the large 34ha Mont de Milieu, a ‘well-known’ and ‘undoubtedly high quality’ area wrote Andy Howard MW in his guide to Chablis Premier Cru, and Montmains, a ‘warm, generous and open premier cru where individual producer style is influence by the presence of clay’.
Fourchaume, notable for ‘power, concentration and orchard fruit flavours combined with umami and flinty notes’ also showed well in this tasting as did Vacoupin where stony soils tend to ‘impart a much more chiselled, pithy, grapefruit style’ Howard noted.
The top wines displayed an array of flavours with intense and expressive citrus touches to more rounded tropical notes and floral aromas and while some shone with wet-stone laced minerality others offered creamy brioche touches giving depth.
In terms of value the overall price bracket sits between £18 – 35 ($25-$50) – the top five wines available for £33.99/$50, £26/$35, £29.99/$45, £18 / $30 and £18.33 / $30 respectively offering a range of options for Chablis drinkers and collectors.
Many are easily approachable now and pair excellently with everything from pork and risotto to fresh seafood and goats cheese salads but these bottles will also age well and should reward cellaring for 4-10 years.
See the top-rated Chablis 2017 and 2018 tasting notes and scores
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Domaine des Malandes, Vieilles Vignes, Chablis, 1er Cru Les Montmains, Burgundy, France, 2017
A wonderfully intense and expressive nose full of honey, lemon and peach alongside aromas of honeysuckle and jasmine tea. On the palate there's bright citrus...
2017
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Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, Chablis, 1er Cru Mont de Milieu, Burgundy, France, 2018
A precise, finessed Chablis here with white floral aromatics and clear rich expression of green apple, peach and succulent citrus zest. This has wonderful chalky...
2018
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Domaine Simonnet Febvre, Chablis, 1er Cru Les Montmains, Burgundy, France, 2017
A lovely combination of lemon rind, white peach, apple and lime zest on the nose with similar flavours on the palate. There's a real intensity...
2017
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Domaine Ventoura, Chablis, 1er Cru Mont de Milieu, Burgundy, France, 2018
Delicious floral notes of violets and turkish delight on the nose with vibrant lemon and citrus aromas giving lift. On the palate there is a...
2018
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Albert Bichot, Domaine Long-Depaquit, Chablis, 1er Cru Vaucoupin, Burgundy, France, 2018
Lovely pineapple on the nose with spritzy vibrant lemon and peach on the palate as well as notes of biscuit and brioche. This is a...
2018
Albert BichotChablis
Domaine des Malandes, Chablis, 1er Cru Fourchaume, Burgundy, France, 2017
Brioche bread on the nose with delicious lemony citrus running through. It has real depth and concentration of flavours and a gorgeous gourmet cream edging....
2017
Domaine des MalandesChablis
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire, Chablis, Burgundy, France, 2018
Softly spiced citrus fruits on the nose, this feels well-handled with clean and pink grapefruit flavours driving the palate forward. It settles on the mid-palate,...
2018
Domaine Jean-Marc BrocardChablis
Domaine Laroche, Chablis, 1er Cru Les Montmains, Burgundy, France, 2017
Lovely lime zest on the nose with sharp bright and steely lemon that instantly hits you on the palate. This is fully refreshing and vibrant...
2017
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Domaine Grossot, Chablis, 1er Cru Vaucoupin, Burgundy, France, 2017
Fresh biscuit and brioche on the nose with zippy lemon and grapefruit that instantly hits the palate. This is intense and expressive with some enjoyable...
2017
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Pierrick Laroche, Domaine des Hâtes, Chablis, 1er Cru Beauroy, Burgundy, France, 2018
Wet stone on the nose with mouthwatering floral-touched lemon notes on the palate underpinned by a mineral backbone. It's steely with precise with touches of...
2018
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Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis, Burgundy, France, 2018
Mineral notes coming through aromatically alongside lime and peach flesh. Intense citrus comes through straight away on the palate giving it freshness and vibrancy. A...
2018
Domaine William FèvreChablis
Garnier et Fils, Chablis, Burgundy, France, 2018
Gooseberry on the nose followed by intense citrus flavours on the palate. Juicy lemon comes through intensely in the mouth with a long lift at...
2018
Garnier et FilsChablis
Domaine Billaud-Simon, Tête d'Or, Chablis, Burgundy, France, 2017
This feels slightly more full and complex than some of the others in the line up. The nose offers white flowers and citrus fruits with...
2017
Domaine Billaud-SimonChablis
Domaine Céline Chevallier, Chablis, 1er Cru Les Montmains, Burgundy, France, 2018
Wonderful florality on the nose, violet aromas like parma violet sweets but fresh and inviting. The palate is soft and creamy with delicious lemon again...
2018
Domaine Céline ChevallierChablis
Domaine Guy Robin, Vieilles Vignes, Chablis, 1er Cru Vaillons, Burgundy, France, 2018
Ripe lime and pear on the nose with wonderfully expressive citrus flavours on the palate - juicy, succulent, vibrant but also concentrated. Silky and broad...
2018
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Domaine Louis Moreau, Chablis, 1er Cru Vaillons, Burgundy, France, 2017
Linear, clean and crystal pear fruit expression on the nose. On the palate it's juicy, really succulent, fresh and inviting. Has nice fleshy edges, some...
2017
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Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen, Chablis, 1er Cru Vaucoupin, Burgundy, France, 2017
Tropical fruit on the nose alongside stone and mineral notes. The palate is fruit forward and nicely concentrated with balanced acidity. It's round and nicely...
2017
Domaine Céline & Frédéric GueguenChablis
Domaine Vrignaud, Chablis, 1er Cru Fourchaume, Burgundy, France, 2017
This is serious and intense with white flowers, apricot and peach on the nose. The palate is powerful with wet stones and beautifully articulated citrus...
2017
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J Moreau & Fils, Chablis, Burgundy, France, 2018
Classic flavours of fresh lemon zest, pear and red apple on the palate all giving juice and fruit intensity. Good acidity keeping things fresh and...
2018
J Moreau & FilsChablis
Pierrick Laroche, Domaine des Hâtes, Chablis, Burgundy, France, 2018
An explosive bouquet of lemon and lime. On the palate there's a stony, mineral base from which pear, apple and lemon zest come through. It's...
2018
Pierrick LarocheChablis