How does English sparkling wine compare to Champagne? The vintage category

After the magnificent austerity of 2008, 2009 is riper and fuller, ‘solaire’ by temperament and generous of figure. Some '09s, according to Geoffroy, are ‘too fat’, but here he achieves ‘creamy opulence’ because the essentially reductive winemaking compromises the extra ripeness. The wine is full-bodied and a touch exotic, certainly, but the taut acidity runs through it, a shard of excellence and finely tempered indulgence. An extrovert to complement the more cerebral 2008.

One of my wines of the tasting, this has terrific tension, elegance and completeness from start to the persistently long finish. It has super-refined definition with minerals, nougat, cream, toast and sweet white pear fruit. Pin sharp acidity is also a major plus.

A very impressive, impeccably made wine with everything in its place. It has crisp acidity, some sweetness to the patisserie, cream, bruised apple and white pear flavours, and a generous texture. Vibrant, racy and tense, there's lots more to come from this.

A lovely fizz with fine, well-defined acidity that works as a counterpoint to the rich, bready notes on the palate. Savoury leesy, spicy notes and dried apricot fruit add extra interest and pleasure. The finish is long with a salty iodine tang.

A cold winter and scattered frost were followed by a hot, dry July. August rains cleared in time for the two weeks of dry, warm weather before a harvest in near-perfect conditions from 11 September. The Comtes is softly rich and lush, with an elegant, approachable ripe apple fruit, a hint of buttered toast and a firm mineral underpinning. Although the texture is somewhat soft, this wine has plenty of extract and potential for ageing.

This has a bright chalky and flinty minerality. The palate is quite restrained and tight, with salty oyster shell notes alongside good acidity and some ripe bruised apple and citrus fruit.

The most unusual wine of the tasting by some distance, this is very evolved and oxidative, with ginger, butter and savoury toast notes. It's a love-it-or-loathe-it wine, and it's not my favourite of the lineup. There’s acidity, but it’s overwhelmed by the fatness of the palate.

Served from magnum. A disappointing showing, this tastes a little too confected and creamy. There is some lees effect and good cleansing acidity, but the citrus fruit is a touch underwhelming to hold it all together.