Hungarian red wines: expert’s choice

Hungary may be famous for its white wines, and especially for the glorious wines of Tokaj, but a third of its vines are in fact red grapes.

The Decanter World Wine Awards 2021 saw the country stake a strong red claim on the map, with its first ever Best in Show for a red wine. And not just any red, but a Bull’s Blood (Bikavér in Hungarian) – a name that may conjure up memories of cheap and rustic wine.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 18 Hungarian red wines worth seeking out

St Andrea’s Nagy-Eged Dűlő Grand Superior [not featured here] is a world away from that era. To rehabilitate Bikavér as a flagship blended red for Hungary has been a lifetime’s passion for father and son György and György Jr Lőrincz, along with several other like-minded wineries in the two regions of Eger and Szekszárd (where Bikavér is a protected denomination).

The other important thing to note about this wine (as with all Bikavér) is that it’s based on Kékfrankos. This central European variety is usually better known as Blaufränkisch and is increasingly admired for its exciting, vibrant, elegant and appetising reds. It is Hungary’s most planted grape and probably originated in old Hungarian territory during the Middle Ages (in what is Slovenia today).

Once a volume workhorse, Kékfankos is loved by producers for its ability to be a lens for where it’s grown and to keep its freshness even in hotter years. Wineries have got much better at handling it more gently (more like Pinot Noir), with a focus on elegance over sheer power, which makes it hugely food-friendly too.

Another important local grape is Kadarka. Once Hungary’s most planted red grape, its fickleness in the vineyard meant it fell out of favour when up against Kékfrankos, and its pale colour didn’t win friends in an era when sheer power ruled. Today, as drinkers search for drinkability and freshness, Kadarka fits the bill perfectly with its gently spiced red fruit and refined tannins, offering real pleasure in the glass.

The grape also has a role in adding an extra dimension in blends – it’s obligatory in the Szekszárd version of Bikavér, for example. Several producers are working hard to rescue other forgotten grapes from obscurity in Hungary. Look out for Csókaszőlő, Fekete Járdovány, Turán and Laska already being made commercially, and there are more to come.

Hungary’s lively wine scene certainly boasts great diversity – and it’s not just about local grape varieties; several international grapes also perform well here. Notably, Cabernet Franc is a star in Villány, in the warmer south of the country, where it has its own classification of Villányi Franc. Here, it makes serious, long-lived, structured reds, but always with freshness and silkiness in the mouth.

Pinot Noir can produce exciting results on cooler, north-facing limestone slopes in Villány and even as far north as Tokaj, and pockets of Syrah can work very well too.

Increasingly, Hungary is my go-to choice for exciting and diverse reds. There’s something for every occasion, from fresh, elegant and vibrant to richly complex and structured. Egészségedre!*

See Caroline Gilby MW’s pick of 18 Hungarian reds worth seeking out

Caroline Gilby MW is a widely published wine writer, awarded author and consultant specialising in the wines of Central and Eastern Europe, and DWWA joint regional Chair for North, Central and Eastern Europe

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