Ridge Monte Bello retrospective: 21 vintages of the California classic

The nose of this youthful wine has great purity of fruit, with sweet intense blackcurrant aromas. The attack is fresh, sleek, and bright, leading to a concentrated palate with high acidity and a lively, peppery tone. It's assertive but not aggressive, and the new oak is not yet integrated. Very long.

The nose is simply gorgeous, very ripe and seductive, and displays great charm and finesse and aromas of pure black fruits. Although rich and tannic, the wine is not too extracted and has ample acidity, which brings some severity which is welcome at this stage. Balanced and discreet, this is less flamboyant than the nose, and clearly needs time to express its full potential. Very long.

From a relatively cool growing season, this is reserved on the nose, with lurking blackberry fruit and a distinct vanilla tone. While rich and opulent, it still has a tannic backbone to keep it taut. It's not showing much complexity now but has great structure and precision. Finely balanced and concentrated, this should develop impressively. Spicy and long.

Intense on the nose, this has blackcurrant and mint aromas, supported by stylish oak and showing lovely purity of fruit. Although plump and opulent, it also displays considerable heft and drive. Still assertive and almost raw, it has ample energy and persistence as well as great depth of flavour.

There's a trace of evolution on the nose, which is still reserved, but has hints of smoke and tobacco as well as brooding black fruits. The attack is suave, with integrated tannins but somewhat raucous acidity that keeps it youthful. There's excellent balance and potential here, as well as ample energy that delivers a very long, zesty finish.

Bursting with blackcurrant and blackberry fruit, the nose is very ripe and seductive. The attack is elegant rather than explosive, but the wine is concentrated though not to excess. The tannins seem slightly dusty but not tough, and the finish is poised, subtle, and delicate rather than powerful or complex. Finely balanced and long, it should nonetheless be long-lived.

Still very deep in colour, after a warm year, this has an intense oaky nose, with a hint of tobacco. The attack is supple and fleshy, with very ripe tannins supporting the concentrated fruit and giving the palate good structure. It's accessible now but will clearly hold, though overall this is a relaxed wine with a very long, gentle finish.

Sumptuous on the nose, this shows a discernible oakiness as well as intense minty tones. Sleek and very polished, this has no rough edges and all the concentration one would expect from a small crop this year. It still has an admirable freshness that keeps it youthful, as does the tannic backbone. This has real presence and structure and admirable length.

The nose is not very expressive, although there are lurking aromas of blackberries and oak. It's suave on the palate, with moderate tannins and no over-extraction, yet has a firm structure and even some austerity. It just lacks some zest and drive on the finish, which may reflect the difficult and uneven growing season.

First tasted in 2009, this Monte Bello has scarcely evolved since. The nose remains dense with lavish black fruits. Broad and bold, this is very concentrated, and distinctly tannic, which gives an assertive and grippy character. Consequently, this is slightly less polished and elegant than some other vintages but still shows force and flair. The finish is robust and savoury, and very long.

Rugged in its youth, this vintage has blossomed. There are opulent blackcurrant and blackberry aromas, with a dash of vanilla. It's suave and full-bodied but not extracted, and the fine-grained tannins and integrated acidity give a polished mid-palate. Spicy and complex, it displays impeccable balance and exemplary finesse. Very long.

After two decades the deep colour is just starting to evolve, as is the nose, which now shows leafy and tobacco aromas while retaining the firm black fruits so evident when the wine was young. The palate is now velvety and supple, with integrated tannins that are not too grippy. The assertive acidity threads through the wine but it's not aggressive and the finish is sweet and long. Incidentally, one of the very few Monte Bellos to surpass 14% alcohol, though it doesn't show.

The nose, while clearly ripe, is subdued and inexpressive. However, the palate is full-bodied and very concentrated, and while the tannins are still present, the wine is polished. It's certainly approachable but still tight and compact, though good acidity ensures a long, stylish finish.

The sumptuous fruit on the nose makes this a more overtly fruity Monte Bello than many other vintages, and the oak is still in evidence too. It's rich and supple but also very concentrated and distinctly tannic, with some edgy acidity. Although not especially harmonious, the finish is sleek and punch with good persistence.

Storms severely reduced the crop in this year, which may have enhanced the quality of this superb wine. The blackcurrant-scented nose is rich and sturdy, showing considerable power and intensity. Sleek and polished, the wine displays great charm and has impressive clarity of fruit. It's discrete rather than flashy, and an oaky mocha tone adds complexity and finesse. Very long with impeccable balance and harmony.

Dense in its youth, this wine from a cool year is now in its prime, with brooding blackcurrant and blackberry aromas of great intensity. It's suave and luxurious despite the modest alcohol, and the fine acidity and integrated tannins result in elegance and poise. It's admirably polished and textured, with excellent balance and length.

There's beguiling sucrosity on the nose, with ripe black fruits and a trace of vanilla. The palate is sumptuous but not overblown, with fine-grained tannins and sustaining acidity that contribute lift and freshness. Showing no rough edges, this has excellent balance and length. Fully ready but will hold.

Tasted from magnum. The colour, not surprisingly, is now showing some age but remains healthy. The nose exhibits perky mint and blackcurrant aromas, and no secondary tones.The attack is still fresh and lively, supple and polished, concentrated but not to excess, and ample acidity ensures it has finesse and persistence. Harmonious and balanced, this delivers a beguiling and charming finish.

Tasted from magnum. The age shows on the nose, which has lost some depth of colour. There's a slightly cooked character on the nose that is probably a hint of brett, but not too disagreeable. The palate is now sleek and delicate, with less body than younger vintages, and it's losing some brightness and drive. But the fruit remains sweet and charming, and this is fully ready though a light tannic grip remains in place. Quite long.

Tasted from magnum. This is clearly evolved in colour and aroma. Sweet and leafy on the nose, this is mature but not faded. Discreet and silky, this is still going strong though at its peak. It's delicate and poised, with some spice on the finish, and hardly showing its 45 years of age. Long.

This vintage pre-dates the Paul Draper era. The bottles opened at this tasting were faded in colour, far more so than a bottle sampled in 2009, which was mushroomy but still vigorous. But this bottle shows delicate red fruits on the nose, while the palate is light and fragile. There is some concentration and elegance, but it's clearly in decline, although the finish is pretty.