Sassicaia masterclass at Decanter’s London Fine Wine Encounter 2022

There was an intense stillness of anticipation and excitement in the audience at this Decanter Masterclass as Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta, head of external relations for Tenuta San Guido, and I prepared to present a rare vertical tasting of Sassicaia, starting with the 1999 vintage and finishing with the most recent, the 2019.

Priscilla opened with an account of the estate and the origins of Sassicaia; the dream and passion of her grandfather, Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta and the life’s work of her father Marchese Nicolò, helped by legendary winemaker Giacomo Tachis.

Sassicaia was the first wine in Bolgheri to use Bordeaux grape varieties to create a wine of world-class quality and international renown, an achievement which was a catalyst for change in Italy. As Angelo Gaja once commented, ‘with Sassicaia, Italian wine learned to speak a foreign language.’ In 1983, Bolgheri DOC was created and in 2013, Bolgheri DOC Sassicaia was established, the first ever single-wine DOC.

Scroll down for Susan Hulme MW’s notes and scores for 10 vintages of Sassicaia going back to 1999

During the masterclass, Priscilla explained that Sassicaia is a wine that reflects where it comes from, with the distinctive character and identity of its terroir, while also expressing the unique character of each vintage. These are wines of elegance and balance more than body and power, wines with long ageing potential which are also approachable at a young age.

I have to concur; Sassicaia is a wine with amazing finesse and understated elegance. The balance between intense concentration, its rich velvety texture and thrilling acidity is special to Sassicaia.

A Sassicaia perspective: 10 wines across 20 years

1999

From magnum. The tasting opened with the 1999, a year which was hot and generally considered good, but the wine was somewhat overlooked on release – perhaps because it had been preceded by three excellent vintages: 1996, 1997 and 1998. Remarkably, at 23 years old, it still displays great vivacity and liveliness with no sign of tertiary or oxidative characteristics.

2002

From magnum. 2002 was virtually written off at the time as a poor vintage, and many producers did not release their wines. Tachis was concerned about the reputational impact of releasing a wine in such a year, but Marchese Nicolò believed in it. Many years later, his decision has been vindicated: the wine showed beautifully between the two hot vintages of 1999 and 2005, with the 2002 looking youthful, concentrated and alive.

2005

From magnum. The 2005 vintage was very similar to the 1999 in that it was quite hot, but by 2005 there was a larger surface area of vineyard from which to source grapes. The more recently planted vineyards had come of age, much more so than they had in 1999. The production was not high, and some berries were not perfectly ripe, with some green elements, but this gave the Sassicaia team more acidity and brightness. With lovely nervosity and dry, clipped tannins, the wine still feels energetic and young.

2006 & 2008

From magnum. 2006 and 2008 were both considered very good vintages and have lived up to their reputation. Priscilla observed that ‘8’ is considered the family’s lucky number: the first Sassicaia released was the 1968; in 1978 Sassicaia came first in a Decanter blind tasting of Bordeaux blends (beating 33 other wines and bringing Sassicaia to the attention of the wine world); and in 1988 Robert Parker gave the 1985 vintage of Sassicaia 100 points. The audience greatly appreciated the 2008 in particular: it was showing a beautiful balance of concentration and freshness.

2011

From magnum. 2011 was a hot, dry vintage in most of Tuscany but for Tenuta San Guido, with its range of vineyards at different altitudes and protected by woods, it was a very good year. The 2011 has a more open, sunny personality on the nose, its bright cheerfulness contrasting with the more brooding, dark woodland fruit character of several of the other vintages. After 2011, Carlo Paoli, director of winemaking, started growing grass on alternate rows to protect the soil from intense summer heat, reduce water evaporation and soak up excess water in wetter vintages.

2013

From magnum. For me, the 2013 is the epitome of perfect harmony and seamlessness, flowing across the palate almost without beginning or end. There’s great precision and definition in the aromas and an inner harmony. It was not rated especially highly when it was released but perhaps now, after ten years, it is just beginning to come into its own.

2015

The 2015 received critical acclaim on release. It was a hot year and the wine bristles with ripe blackberries and creamy, spicy oak, somewhat at odds with the elegant style favoured by Tenuta San Guido in vintages such as 1988, 2008, 2013 and 2016.

2017

2017 was an extremely dry and hot year but because of the expertise of Carlo Paoli and his team in the vineyards and in the winery, the nose is wonderfully fragrant with clear and transparent aromas, and there’s a beautiful harmony and freshness on the palate.

2019

2019, with its return to more normal weather patterns, was a dream vintage. This is an absolutely beautiful wine but it may be better to wait another five or six years before starting to drink it; in general, Sassicaia is best after about 10 years, with a life expectancy of another 20.

Audience questions

Question: ‘In the light of climate change, are there likely to be changes to the Sassicaia blend or in methods of production?’

Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta: ‘As Cabernet Franc is more difficult to ripen in very hot vintages, they have started to reduce the percentage slightly. The time spent in oak may also increase.’

Question: ‘Which Premier Cru Classé [Bordeaux] would you say is most like Sassicaia?’

Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta: ‘For me it would be closest perhaps to Château Lafite [Rothschild], with its depth of richness and texture, the extremely elegant weight and acidity, and its haunting fragrance.

Susan Hulme MW’s notes and scores from the Sassicaia Masterclass:

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