Red grape Pinot Meunier, or just Meunier, as it is known in France, accounts for roughly a third of land under vine in Champagne, with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir making up most of the remainder.
The grape is recognisable in the vineyard due to its leaves, which have fine hairs resembling a coating of white dust or flour on their undersides, hence the name Meunier, which means ‘miller’ in French.
This Champagne workhorse has sometimes been considered a lesser cousin to its popular counterparts, rather unfairly, given its reliability in the vineyard.
The three key varieties all have different roles to play in Champagne and other sparkling blends.
Think of friends at a gathering. Chardonnay is the well-dressed guest reclining elegantly on the sofa while self-assured Pinot Noir brings structure and weight to dinner table discourse. Meunier, previously considered less stylish than the other two, bursts into the room with its youthful character and vivacious acidity, although it may leave the party early, being generally less recognised for its ageing potential.
But expressions in Champagne and beyond are showing Meunier is emerging as a successful single varietal in its own right.
Although less common, some producers make a Blanc de Meunier, a Champagne made from solely Pinot Meunier grapes.
Master Sommelier Roberto Duran, who advocates for the variety, references the ‘lighter, more elegant style’ of Cazé-Thibaut’s Naturellement Extra. He also highlights the oxidative style of Denis Salomon’s Histoire de Famille which ‘brings powerful new energy and dimension to Meunier Champagne pairings.’
‘It matches especially well with one of my favourite dishes, beef tartare, integrating with the slightly spicy seasoning and complementing the meatiness of the beef,’ Duran adds.
And Pinot Meunier’s glory doesn’t stop at the sparkling category.
Kent producer Simpsons Estate makes a 100% Pinot Meunier still white, brimming with ‘tangy ripe red apple and pear’ according to a recent tasting note from Decanter contributor David Williams.
Over the pond in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Decanter’s North American Editor Clive Pursehouse describes a red expression in the form of Eyrie Vineyards’ Dundee Hills 2022 as having ‘aromas of wild green strawberries, mint and alpine meadow herbs’.
