Chablis 2020: top-value wines

A relatively recent estate, Céline's father is Jean-Marc Brocard, whilst Frédéric worked at Domaine Durup. They continue to make great strides with their Chablis. This is a lovely example with concentration on the palate and extra layers of flavour compared to many. Despite the power and ripeness of fruit, the wine is kept in perfect balance by crisp acidity and a fine, mineral finish. Great stuff.

The domaine was created in 1949 by André Tremblay, before passing in 1972 to daughter Lyne Marchive. Since 2018 the 29ha estate has been run by Richard Rottiers and Amandine Marchive. A fine Montmains with some light oak notes evident on the nose and palate, combined with succulent peach fruit, citrus acidity, a hint of lime zest on the finish and matching acidity. A complex, weighty, but very balanced and complete premier cru.

Some of the vines here are over 70 years old. Even with a reticent, understated nose one can sense the energy and precision in this wine. There’s a lovely, creamy texture on the palate, with bright citrus notes and a long, lingering, savoury, mineral finish. A very fine example of Chablis which would compete very effectively against many a premier cru.

Showing a steely edge to balance the slightly exotic, stone fruit characters on the nose, this is another classy Chablis from Long-Depaquit. A Premier Cru Chablis with plenty of concentration on the palate and a sunny character, yet framed by citrus acidity and a lingering mineral, saline finish. This has the power to age very well.

Cool, restrained, Chablis which needs time to unfurl in the glass. There is a great deal of fruit purity on show though, combined with subtle ripeness of stone and orchard fruits, lovely acidity and an energy on the palate which makes one want to drink another glass. One of Jean-François Bordet's best.

Vincent trained in the Jura and at Domaine Leflaive before starting to work with his father, setting up his own domaine in 2004. Vincent is a great fan of the acidity in Vaillons and this example proves his point. A combination of green apple and pear fruits, concentration and a mineral, vibrant edge, with that acidity holding everything together. A very energetic wine with a saline character on the finish. Beautifully balanced Vaillons.

Produced by Agnès, Didier and Florent Dauvissat in Beines. A crisp, clean, dynamic Chablis with lovely citrus acidity and mineral notes to balance the ripeness of green apples and hints of peaches. Very appealing, finishes with a lingering mineral aftertaste. Has the concentration to develop well in bottle.

Domaine Schaller is a family venture based in Préhy. Run by Laurent, with son Camille now in charge of winemaking, the domaine has adopted sustainable practices to produce fine wines across the gamut of Chablis appellations. From 30-year-old vines, the wine is fermented in steel then aged for 10 months on fine lees in steel tanks. A fine AOP Chablis with a salty, flinty character on the palate, vibrant acidity and green apple fruit. Displaying a good balance of acidity, weight, ripeness and elegance, this is a beautifully poised, fresh Chablis.

A new estate, with 10ha based in Préhy, established by Lea Schaller following the retirement of her father in 2019. Very clean, crisp, elegant Chablis with appealing layers of flavour and a long, lingering, mineral-edged finish. Apple fruit character with a hint of zesty citrus on the palate, plus a hint of gunflint; this is thirst-quenching and vibrant.

Les Beugnons is one of the eight climats within the wider Vaillons Premier Cru, with a moderate slope and south to southwest exposure, making it an earlier-ripening climat. In 2020, this is a fine premier cru wine with intensity and concentration of stone fruit and red apples. Plushly textured, this is balanced by typical Vaillons acidity and a chalky, drying minerality on the palate. Will be a fine gastronomic wine. Very successful and complex in character.

Eléonore Moreau took over control of vinification at this 14ha estate in 2016. The vines were planted by her father in the 1980s in Poilly-sur-Serein. Vinified in stainless steel, this Petit Chablis has great energy, with pristine citrus notes on the palate, and aromas of white flowers. Finishes with a very fresh, salty, lingering aftertaste. A very fine Petit Chablis which would match a number of Chablis.

Established in 1923, La Chablisienne continues to set the standard for quality-focused co-operatives around the world. Vibrant and zesty, this is a powerful, concentrated Petit Chablis with aromas of tree fruits and a mineral-driven palate full of flinty, green apple flavours. Average vine age is 15 years, with a planting density between 5,500-6,500 vines per ha. A more structured, serious Petit Chablis with the stuffing to age for several years.

From plots above Les Clos which Samuel retained when he split from Billaud-Simon, this has a serious, rather complex nose with floral notes and also fresh green apple. Plenty of flesh on the palate, combined with fresh acidity, this is a Petit Chablis punching well above its weight, and one of the top Petit Chablis around.