Michaela Morris: My top fine wines of 2020

As 2020 went sideways, I became even more attuned to wine’s ability to transport, connect, and commemorate. Fittingly, Italy’s comforting classics dominate my top wines of the year. Nevertheless, these are peppered with off-the-beaten-path gems, including one from my home-base in Canada.

Scroll down for Michaela’s top fine wines of 2020

Before virtually all travel ground to a halt in March, I had already squeezed in a trio of anteprima tastings: Barolo and Barbaresco, Amarone, and Tuscany. The latter included various vintages of Chianti Classico, and while the parched 2017 did not enjoy the widespread success of 2015 and 2016, wines that did shine burned brightly – such as Istine’s lovely Vigna Istine from the cool reaches of Radda.

My last stop before Italy went into lockdown was Montalcino. Besides an epic Biondi-Santi Riserva vertical going back to 1971, I tried a brigade of excellent Brunello from the generous 2015 vintage. Conti Costanti’s was at the top of the pile. I spent a few precious moments enjoying it as I took in the view over the town prior to heading home.

Being grounded in Vancouver was not a hardship. Before restrictions tightened, I gathered with local colleagues for a retrospective of Piedmont’s 1996 vintage. Within an extraordinary lineup, Bruno Giacosa’s elegant Falletto Riserva Barolo and Gaja’s stunningly powerful Sperss stood out. The sensory recall of the latter was visceral when I tasted the 2016 and 2017 vintages at the estate later in the year.

Four walls

Many tastings in 2020, however, took place within my own four walls. Among the top Tuscan IGT wines, Isole e Olena’s 2016 Cepparello was particularly impressive. Of Vietti’s 2016 Barolo, Rocche di Castiglione was the most transportive. I also checked in on Italy’s promising new generation. Waving the flag for Alto Piemonte, Cristiano Garella is emblematic of this set. His 2016 Colombera & Garella Pizzaguerra gives an eloquent voice to the lesser-known denomination of Lessona.

Staying close to home also gave me an opportunity to catch up with wines from my own backyard. I headed to the Okanagan Valley to judge British Columbia’s Lieutenant Governor’s Wine Awards. Both here, and in a subsequent blind tasting, Tantalus’s 2017 Old Vines emerged radiantly as my top BC Riesling, truly world-class.

Despite the odds, I returned to Piedmont mid-autumn. During the mandatory two-week quarantine in Barolo, my tastings focused on recent releases. Once liberated, I ventured beyond the Langhe where I was particularly taken by the zones of Caluso (home to the white Erbaluce grape) and Carema (unequivocal mountain Nebbiolo) – both simmering with young, up-and-coming winemakers. One of the most enduring sips though was from Monferrato where the Accornero family has long been championing Grignolino. Their 2013 Bricco del Bosco Vigne Vecchie is a testament to this grape’s true merits.

Loss and light

Alas, 2020 was a year of significant loss for so many. On 14 March, Renato Vacca succumbed to cancer – he was 51. I met him in 2007 and from that time on, Cantina del Pino was a mandatory stop on visits to Barbaresco. Thoughtful and rigorous, Renato was a gifted winemaker. He also made a mean spaghetti al pomodoro. I saw him last in late January and we sat quietly over a glass of his 2016 Ovello Barbaresco. I will sincerely miss our insightful discussions and his gentle, generous soul.

As we look forward to 2021, there is light at the end of a long tunnel. I, for one, will be relying on wines from my already ravaged cellar to get me there.

See Michaela’s top fine wines of 2020

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